Stories · · 5 min
A cellar of chenin
Mathilde Royer on building a list around one grape and the people who grow it.
Of the 1,400 references in the cellar beneath the kitchen, almost a fifth are chenin blanc. Mathilde makes no apology for it. “It can be bone dry or sweet, still or sparkling, young or forty years old. No other grape follows a twelve-course menu so far.”
“One grape,twelve courses.”
She visits the Loire every spring, and buys from growers she has known since her first job as a commis sommelier in Angers.